Archive for February, 2009


South Island

15 days later, tanned and sandflies bites on our legs, Paprika and I are back from our holidays.

A journey through three regions of the South Island : Canterbury, Marlborough and Nelson.

Our journey starts with an early morning flight to Christchurch and an aerial view of Canterbury plains and Banks peninsula.

Later that day, we play the perfect tourist visiting Christchurch’s cultural precinct.

avontram

I liked this charming city: Avon river with weeping willows and boaters; old trams and a successful mix of architecture.

It is a hot summer day and there is entertainment everywhere: Young Irish dancers performing on Cathedral Square, R&B singers and dancers in the middle of the Arts Centre, a craft market and people sunbathing at cafés…

christchurch1

After all this buzz, Akaroa (Banks peninsula) looks like a peaceful town by the sea. Traces of the French settlement remains in many placenames there.

Banks peninsula is made by extinct volcanoes and the ride on Summit road gives an idea of the geological evolution.

bankspeninsula

Further North, an other peninsula: Kaikoura. The programme: Watch whales and eat crayfish !…

spermwhale

A strong swell and my seasickness allow me to see only a sperm whale and an orc (through the window).The boat goes until Kaikoura canyon (more than 1800m deep) to encounter these huge marine mammals. I’m really touched to see for the first time a whale…

Heading towards Marlborough Sounds, passing by Blenheim and then Havelock. Following the scenic road along Kenepuru Sound gives an insight of the beauty of these intricate sounds.

marlborough

 Plenty of surprises along the road : unexpected horses, hidden beach, quiet camping ground by the river…

ontheway

We leave Marlborough to Nelson.

Under a pouring rain we arrive at the eastern entrance of Abel Tasman national park.

For the first time, we kayak with (no luck) rain and an unexpecting swell… The camera placed at the front of the kayak in a waterproof box, did stayed in its box…

The day after, back to earth. We walk on the coastal track of the park, with the sound of cicadas and through a lush vegetation, punctuated with streams, falls and coves below.

abeltasmanpark

After two days in the bush, we rest at Nelson city, drink some good coffee, eat scrumptious pastries (Sweedish Bakery) and stroll the streets.

nelson

Then the last part of our trip: Golden Bay, the Western part of Nelson region.

A guided tour of Farewell Spit and its lighthouse. It’s a 25km sand spit and bird sanctuary. Our guide is very passionate and shares his knowledge about this reserve with a real talent of story teller !

farewellspit1

We spent our afternoon on Wharariki beach. One of New Zealand’s best beaches. Only 15 minutes drive from Farewell Spit, the beach is accessible after a short walk. The site is stunning with dramatic rocks, white sand dunes in the background and almost anybody…

wharariki

Amongst our leisure in Golden bay: Visit of  Pupu Springs and its extremely clear water; Fishing salmon in Anatoki river, then savour it smoked with different flavours; Small walk in the Western part of Abel Tasman park, discovering golden sand coves; Fresh and good food at Mussel Inn…

abeltasman

hospitality

I felt a twinge of sadness to leave Golden bay, we had such a good time there…

But it’s time to take the direction of Picton and cross the cook Strait with the ferry. One of the most spectacular cruises in the world… Well, it was raining endlessly. Luckily the swell was unusually small…

It was good to be completely disconnected for two weeks. My head is still full of images, but I can’t insert them all here ! (I’ll try to show them on More on Flickr)

The success of this trip is not only due to the great landscapes that we saw, all the range of animals we approached, but also all the nice people we met on our way, hosts who welcome us in their house, or professionals who give the best of themselves… I thank them all.  

For now, I have hundreds of feeds to read… So, see you soon !

 

Update:

Good food and places to stay that we liked and recommend:

Avocado Adventures: Linda+ Stu – Nelson city

Linda baked some fluffy muffins (yummy!) to welcome us and Stu gave us some great advices about places to visit for the rest of our trip. Very friendly couple and the self-contained apartment with seaview is very pleasant ! It’s very well-equiped and ideal for a long stay.

Sans Soucis Inn: Vera+ Reto – Golden Bay, Pohara.

A relaxing place with a lush vegetation in the courtyard. The whole place was built by Vera and Reto themselves in a mediterannean style and it’s eco-friendly. The food is also delicious and nicely served !   

The Sweedish Bakery & Cafe : 54 Bridge Street, Nelson city

The best pastries I ate so far in New Zealand ! Friendly service and delicious treats.

Mussel Inn:  Golden Bay, Onekaka

This quirky place serves simple and fresh food. They aslo brew their own beer.

Chalfield B&B: Gene + David – Between Havelock and Blenheim, Malrborough region.

Gene welcomes you in their home with a cup of tea and will be pleased to show you their alpacas.

I have uploaded more pictures on Flickr for those still interested to see a bit more…

 

La suite en français…

Exploring…

sailing1

While you are reading this, Paprika and I are in the South Island… Exploring for the first time this land we heard and dreamed about for so long…

So see you in few days with hopefully pictures of New Zealand to share !

What Do You Do When It Fails ?

at1

As easy as pie. That’s an expression I won’t forget !

I wanted to make an apricot tart with cocoa puff pastry and pistachio frangipane. That sounds delicious, no ?

The thing is I didn’t foresee that will have to work hard to get it … I made three attempts to get it right !

The first time, I was very disappointed when I removed my tarts from the oven. The pastry was like a slate and didn’t puff at all (first picture). I just felt like spending hours for nothing… Well, it’s not completely true, you always learn from your mistakes…

at8

I didn’t want to give up so easily. After all, it’s just a tart and that should not impress me !

So the following day, I made an other attempt. Starting from scratch again and changing recipe.

The result was almost there. Yes, almost. The pastry did puff but I didn’t cook enough the tart and the frangipane overflew the pastry making the tart soggy… A despair !

I am stubborn. When I want something I don’t give up. So I made a third attempt. The last and successful one ! (finally…)

And I was rewarded for being persistent. The pastry was light and crisp with pistachio and apricot’s flavors melting in the mouth… A good treat to enjoy in a late sunny afternoon…

at4

After these culinary misadventures I’m curious to know what do you do when it fails ? Do you just think it’s the wrong recipe, or do you give it a second chance ? How many time are you ready to try ? Or do you give it up after the first attempt thinking it’s not made for you ?

Recipe: I’m not good at explaining but Fanny and Aran have made an excellent work explaining and illustrating the process of making a pâte feuilletée, so I forward you to Fanny (Foodbeam) and Aran (Cannelle et Vanille)’s posts.

I’ll just add my personal side notes:

- Don’t be in hurry to make pâte feuilletée. Looking back, that’s not so difficult, you just need care.

- Make a small amount of dough if you do it for the first time. It will be easier to manage (I made my pastry with 140g flour and got a 26X16cm tart !)

- Cook the tart at 210°C for 10 min. and then at 180°C for 20 min.

- Don’t forget to prick the bottom of the tart before filling

- Keep a 1-2 cm border

For the pistachio frangipane cream 20gr butter with 60 gr sugar, then add 1 egg and mix until combine. Add 75gr ground pistachio and 2 tbsp flour. This quantity is enough for 2 tarts (26cm X 16cm)

La suite en français…